Monocle Magazine
Issue 37. October 2010
P.143
What Happens After Neo-Conservatism?
Trends
By Tom Morris
Who saw it coming? Teenagers in brogues, rock stars in three-piece tweed suits, even young artists wearing deck shoes. Bow ties, Chelsea boots, cardigans - everyone's dressing like Dad.
Was it when Junya Watanabe sent his boys down the runway in gingham blazers and seersucker, or when the late Alexander McQueen dressed models in chambray shirts that we knew even the avant-garde was taking a traditional turn? When Thom Browne, an ex-Ralph Lauren creative, was hailed as the most progressive addition to the New York scene - before being recruited by preppy outfitters Brooks Brothers for its Black Fleece collection in 2007 - it was clear fashion was smartening up its act.
But Who drove the style, and was it a sign of the times? With every corner of the job market looking shaky, people wanted to feel more worthy when they hit the office. Similarly, the recession made consumers more discerning; they expected more for their money.
Luxury brands have had to justify their position. Suddenly we saw them replacing baggy celebrities in ad campaigns with images of craftsmen hand-stitching luggage together in artisanal workshops. "Made in England", "Made in Italy" and "Made in the USA" became honest descriptors, with the consumer seeking the reliability and quality those hallmarks stand for. Fashion went back to basics and with the renaissance of preppy heritage brands came the stiffening of its upper lip.
So what happens next? Dress-down Fridays certainly seem outdated. Known for being ahead of the game, the most contemporary thing Apple could do next is get Steve Jobs to get out of knitwear.
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